I recently returned from a 11-day solo trip to the Canadian Rockies, returning through the Kootenays and Okanagan. And, I have to say, what’s out in my backyard of British Columbia and Alberta really stacks up with the best I’ve seen anywhere else.
Always a sucker for a good circle tour, I made my way from the Lower Mainland to Kamloops, Valemount, Jasper, Banff, Kimberley, Nelson, Nakusp, and Penticton before heading home. Here are a few of my trip highlights that I really enjoyed in the order I visited them.
Spahats Falls, BC
The first major falls inside Wells Gray Park is Spahats Falls. While I felt compelled to go to Helmcken Falls, I decided it was just too far off course (40km into the park) for a quick in-and-out on my trip to Valemount. Spahats Falls offers a great bang-for-your-buck waterfall that’s just 10 minutes from Clearwater, and you get the general vibe. With all the run-off coming from the melting snow in the mountains, I saw it under perhaps the most impressive conditions. Worth a stop!
Canadian Rockies
Mount Robson, BC
Whilst I was lucky to have good weather for almost the entirety of the trip, the morning I went through Mount Robson Provincial Park, her head was in the clouds. But, it’s still a beautiful spot to stop and take in the mammoth mountain – the highest in the Canadian Rockies – even if you can only see 5/6ths. I have seen it on a clear day, and it is tremendous.
Maligne Lake (Spirit Island Boat Tour), AB
I booked an extra night to be able to go out to Maligne Lake in chill fashion and it was well worth it. Drive out 48km from Jasper to the picturesque Maligne Lake and take a 2-hour boat tour to Spirit Island. There, in secluded fashion, you can see the Hall of the Gods – a series of high peaks and glaciers that border Maligne Lake. Many consider this view to be the best view in the Rockies, and I count myself among them. Plus, you might befriend a Scotsman on the boat ride back who tips half his bottle of 16-year old Glen Deveron scotch whisky into your reusable bottle.
Maligne Canyon, AB
On the way back, I made a quick pop-in to Maligne Canyon, and was glad I did. It’s basically a geology book brought to life (I mean that in the least boring way possible) with the powerful flows of water eroding and smoothing the rock into gentle, wavy-patterns. Another one that’s easy to do and just outside of Jasper.
Athabasca Falls, AB
This was perhaps my favourite falls of the trip – and there were many! I preferred it over Sunwapta, which was much smaller comparatively. With viewing platforms very close to the waterfall itself, you can really feel the power of the falls as it tumbles down in torrents right beside you. I heard Emperor Palpatine describing the Death Star as “fully operational” in my head when I was standing right next to it. Plus, you might see a moose at the side of the road as I did when I was heading out from here.
Athabasca Glacier (Toe of the Athabasca Glacier Trail), AB
I didn’t initially have this on my list, but was glad I stopped here. I figured that glaciers are probably all going to be gone soon, so I better get up-close to one while I could. Plus, I’d spent an hour hiking in New Zealand to barely see a glimpse of what remains of Franz Josef Glacier. Here, you can hike right up to “The Toe of the Athabasca Glacier” – and on it if your footwear permits. Alternatively, you can do a proper tour and bus up to the middle of the glacier, but getting there on foot felt more special to me. It’s just a quick 15-minute jaunt from the parking lot, if you can luck out and get a spot as I did.
Peyto Lake, AB
I think this is perhaps the best lake in the Rockies. I know Lake Louise gets a lot of attention, but man, Peyto Lake on a blue sky day is next-level. The shock of piercing blue water shines brightly against the neighbouring trees and high peaks that sprout up from its shores. You do have to do a short, uphill hike for 10 minutes, but it is well worth it to get up high and look down at this picturesque view. DON’T SLEEP ON PEYTO LAKE.
Hoodoo Viewpoint (for the Bow River View), AB
I came for the hoodoo (disappointing) but was rewarded with this sweeping view of the Bow River and Banff Springs Hotel in the background. Just – don’t get sucked in the hoodoo. The real view is along the walkway, as I told an entire bus of geriatric German tourists who wouldn’t have ventured far enough along to see it. Also, I casually saw five hoodoos on the side of the road heading to Kimberley that same day and had to laugh. Not a tour bus in sight, no fanfare. Five hoodoos.
Kootenays
Kimberley, BC
This small Kootenay town means a lot to me. I was obsessed with the town’s cuckoo clock as a small child – I would not leave until Happy Hans came out. So, I was thrilled to be reunited once more. It made for a great transitional place to stay as I head out of the Rockies, as they still loom nearby on the horizon. Plus, cocktails at Hourglass were a great success.
Fletcher Falls, BC
Just before you hit Kaslo on your way up from Nelson, enter a small, unmarked path just off the highway and follow the steepish, 5-minute trail down. I had to ask a local because the trail head wasn’t obvious, but it was well-worth figuring it out. You’ll quickly know you’re in the right place once you head down the trail, because you will soon hear the thundering waterfall. Fletcher Falls cascades down into Kootenay Lake, and there’s a viewing platform at the bottom where you can be refreshed by the mist coming off the falls.
Kootenay Lake Ferry, BC
This came highly recommended to me and I was glad I did it. This free, 30-minute ferry takes you across Kootenay Lake from Crawford Bay to Balfour Bay just north of Nelson. I got on the 20-car Osprey and thought I might be the only car on the ferry until a handful more showed up last minute. Beautiful views and it made for a bit more of a chill driving day!
Nakusp, BC
I’d wanted to visit Nakusp since I worked at an outdoor movie company that put on an event there and I saw pictures of the beautiful lake. Being that it requires taking either a small ferry or a fair bit of driving to get to, there were hardly any people (or boats) there. Whilst the town left a bit to be desired – and the restaurant prices were jarringly high – I’d recommend it if you wanted to miss the truck-and-boat populous of Kelowna and get in some nice calm, lakeside hangs.
Okanagan
Kalamalka Lake, BC
Whilst the tremendous blue colour of Kalamalka Lake wasn’t quite popping when I went through, the sprawling view from Kalamalka Viewpoint, and warm breeze that sped through there, was a lovely welcome to the Okanagan. I’m sure it would be even better on waterskis or wakeboard, as many were enjoying below me.
Naramata Bench and Summerland, BC
Wine country. Enough said. I have a thing for viewing water from height, and Naramata Bench and Summerland certainly delivered. Here, vineyards line the hillside up from Lake Okanagan. Sun Rock Viewpoint also offered this view without a winery visit. But, I absolutely did visit many a winery, and came home with 12 bottles.
Stemwinder Provincial Park, BC
This is a frequent stop for me. I stand on a rock in the stream and think about all that’s happened since I was last there. A super tranquil spot that makes for a nice, chill place to break up the trek to or from the Lower Mainland.
Comments
I must have just missed the cut off for honourable mention! Beautiful article!