Granada will go down in my life as one of the most incredible places I have ever been privileged enough to visit. I cannot encourage you more highly to go – but to go at the right time! Visiting in early May, I enjoyed it in 21-22°C degree weather, with flowers and roses in full bloom, and moderate crowds. Already, a month later, it is up to a high of 35°C degrees, so picking when to go is important to your comfort and ability to enjoy this spectacular city.
The Alhambra
The Alhambra is a truly magical place, and worth every bit of the hype I had heard beforehand. Its beautiful architecture is set above Granada, with sweeping views of the Sierra Nevada, hillside houses, and city below. I opted to walk up the slope, like the thousands of people before me, along a garden path that begins at Puerta de las Granadas. If you have mobility issues or want to save your legs (reasonable), there is a bus that will take you to the Alhambra’s entrance.
After arriving through the towering Puerta de la Justicia (big arch, tiny door), I visited the Alcazaba (meaning “fortress”), which offers sweeping views of Granada below from its towers. I happened to be up here when it turned noon and was treated to hearing all the church bells ring out across the city, and get my first glimpse of the snowy Sierra Nevada mountains behind.
Then, following the recommended visitation order, I headed to the circular Palace de Carlos V, and the gardens and pools outside the Nasrid Palaces (more on those later). Being late April, all of the flowers, particularly the roses, were in full bloom and the air was flooded with sweet scents. Beauty was osmosing its way into my body at every turn. Finally, to the gorgeous Generalife Gardens and associated buildings, which offered a lovely view looking back at the rest of the Alhambra, including perhaps its most iconic water fountain set-up.
After a sight-filled 3 hours, I wandered back down to town and stopped in a guitar shop where I completed my dream of playing a Spanish guitar in Spain (and got a “Granada” pick to take home.)
I returned at 7pm from my assigned time to visit the Nasrid Palaces – this time taking the bus with the oldies. Earlier in the day, I had asked a few people coming out if it was worth it to return for the palaces. They all resoundingly said “YES!” and, having gone now, I can see why.
I was initially a bit annoyed that my appointed time was in the evening, but now I realize it was fortuitous. The warm hues of twilight bathed the walls in a golden glow that illuminated all the details and intricacies of the carvings and structures. The star-shaped domes, delicately etched scriptures along the doorways, and stone “icicle” structures had me mesmerized.
Dappled light caressed the walls through the lattice screen mashrabiyas and I found myself audibly saying “Wooow” as I walked into each space. You keep thinking “this is the most beautiful thing I’ve seen today” and then walk into the next section only to have it surpassed. I was truly in awe at the beauty and careful construction of these buildings.
As I left the palaces, I was amused to see the many, many cats of the Alhambra come to be fed and doted on by the cleaning staff. Then, begrudgingly, I left this beautiful space and headed back down the garden path to the city. The evening birdsong that accompanied me provided the perfect bookend to this profound experience. I truly hope you can visit this place once in your life, and have an experience like mine.
Walking from Carrera del Darro to the Caves of Sacromonte
On my second full day, I decided to let my heart and intuition lead me. I started by heading to Carrera del Darro, which is considered one of the prettiest streets in Granada. The cobblestone road, set beside the Darro River, gradually heads uphill to Paseo de los Tristes. The route goes past the free Archaeological Museum of Granada, which I stopped in to look at a few artifacts. Along the way, I also listened to two Spanish guitarists (one whom I recognized from a performance poster), busking outside a restaurant. The restaurant was rolling empty kegs for pick-up, which added an interesting, but unexpected, percussive instrumentation to the performance.
From there, I found myself going up, up, up to the cavetown of Sacromonte, with stops at Palacio de los Cordova and Mirador de la Vereda de Enmedio. The concept of living in a cave made me deeply uncomfortable, and I debated visiting altogether. But, realizing very few people ACTIVELY LIVE IN CAVES, I decided to push through and check it out. I really enjoyed wandering up and away from the rest of my tourist brethren, and was rewarded with quiet views of the Alhambra, accompanied by birdsong, which becomes more noticeable the further you walk out of the fray.
Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte turned out to be more interesting than I anticipated, and didn’t give me the creeps at all. Much like Hobbiton, my 5’2 self fit snugly in a small cave dwelling, although my mild claustrophobia and need for daylight would not bode well in there. People still live in caves (of varying quality) to this day, and the museum is a way of keeping the masses away from these residential dwellings. Historically, these caves were inhabited by outcasts and immigrants, as many still do.
I also learned that these caves are the birthplace of flamenco, and it was interesting to watch videos of how this beloved art form was created. You can even go to a flamenco performed in a cave, but my legs were too worn out by my climbs to head back up to the hills later in the evening.
The caves keep to a steady 19-21°C degrees, which makes for more hospitable living in the summer, while the “surface folks” get scorched. Worth your time to visit a unique place! I was warned to not delve too far into the “residential cave” area, so I suggest sticking to near the museum area.
Mirador, mirador (up) the wall
Being set at the base of a valley, Granada has plenty of miradors (and steps!) from which to enjoy spectacular views. After visiting the cavetown museum, I went up to the highest one – Mirador de San Miguel Alto – where I was rewarded with a beautiful view of the snowy Sierra Nevada set behind the city. It’s a bit hard to see them in the city itself, since you are down on the valley floor, but a higher vantage point provides a view of them looking “over the shoulder” of the Alhambra. From there, I walked back down along the ancient city wall to Mirador de San Nicolás, among many others, with each mirador (“viewpoint”) offering a zoom lense on the view I’d had from high above. It was an interesting experience going from the relative solitude above the town to the thrum of civilization below.
The Albaicín Quarter & La Alcaicería
I returned to the heartbeat of the Albaicín quarter, with narrow walkways (like Calle Elvira) filled with tea houses, perfumeries, and pastry shops. I walked down a few quiet pathways that took my interest and just happened to stumble upon the Mezquita Mayor de Granada when it was reopening around 3pm, and enjoyed the view from there. I wished I’d had a bit more gas in the tank to enjoy this space, but it was a little too much hustle and bustle for my waning energy levels post-mirador summit. I settled for spritzing myself with a few perfumes at the perfumery, and picking up fresh baklava.
Shortly after arriving in Granada, I also visited La Alcaicería, which is an Arab-style bazaar (and souvenir central) with tiny walkways teeming with wares and shops. From there, you easily walk along to the Cathedral of Granada, where I happened to find a man playing lovely songs on a Spanish guitar underneath the looming building.
Tapas time
Granada is renowned for providing free tapas with every drink order. The more you drink, the more food you get served. This worked out well for wanting a small snack, and is a fun Granada experience to have. As a solo traveller, I felt I needed to keep my wits about me, so I usually just had one drink, but if you’re in a group, I imagine bar hopping would be a fun thing to do. I also ordered a few spectacularly bad tapas during my time in Spain, so maybe having them brought to you is the way to go. (Raw herrings with toast, you were not the one – and, not what I thought I ordered!)
Granada is a magical place. I will likely romanticize it the rest of my life. It can be both quiet and reflective, and full of pace and excitement. For me, it was a lovely place to just be; to wander and explore, to sit and ponder, to connect with myself and others. I felt healed in some way upon leaving, and I hope that feeling of warmth, lightness, and hope can reside within me for the rest of my life.
