Having recapped my trip to upwards of 40 people over the last few days, I thought I’d share my top New Zealand spots – if only to keep their fond memory burning brightly in my brain. I should preface by saying that I am very much a nature/scenery person, so I will quite “naturally” gravitate towards places of Earthly beauty. Here are my top 15 New Zealand spots!
1) The Coromandel Peninsula
I caught my first glimpse of Coromandel’s long, sweeping beaches from my Dreamliner as we finally sighted land after 14 hours over sea. Gleaming in the sun thousands of feet below, I got my first real sense that I was moments away from landing in my dream destination – and that I had that beach to look forward to in a few days. From Auckland, I drove ‘round-the-horn on the 25 highway through Coromandel to Whitianga, where I would stay for 2 nights. And, it did not disappoint. While high tide prevented me from seeing New Chum’s Beach, Cook’s Beach, Shakespeare Cliff, and Cathedral Cove were stunning. My favourite view ended up being perched high atop Shakespeare Cliff, looking out at the blue, shining ocean all around. As one Kiwi said to me, “Itz magic up ‘ere, ey?” It certainly was.
Hot Water Beach lived up to its name as well, with the scalding hot water being brought up from springs under the sand. Having a few too many humans here made me stay here for only a few minutes, but it was a cool experience nonetheless. Also, “hot tip” for Hot Water Beach: don’t bother paying to rent a spade – there are countless holes already dug when you arrive.
2) Waitomo Glowworm Caves
Being slightly claustrophic, I wasn’t sure how this was experience was going to gel with me, but it came HIGHLY recommended. I drove 2 hours out of the way, just to drive 2 hours back, but it was absolutely worth it. While the entrance to the cave is narrow and unassuming, you quickly enter a massive, cavernous space. I was surprisingly moved by this experience; I felt a profound sense of connectedness to the Earth standing inside this cave – almost as if I was standing in the Earth’s Cathedral. Inside, it maintains a warm 16-degree temperature due to the insulating properties of the limestone, which also causes sound to be muffled. This was also the first time I saw stalagmites and stalactites in the flesh, which I found very cool after taking countless (okay 4 – I counted them) Earth & Ocean Science courses.
The glowworms themselves were also very cool. As if you’ve paid for a trust exercise not a tour, you are guided down a staircase in near-darkness and ushered into a rowboat. Sitting there, you wonder how its propelled, until your eyes adjust and you realize that your guide is quietly pulling you along using a rope system on the ceiling. Drifting in silence (which…do glowworms have ears? Probably not, but you’re told to keep your pie-hole shut), you gaze up at the ceiling to see thousands of glowworms strewn across the ceiling like little stars or Liberace sequins. Beautiful.
3) Driving the Manawatu Scenic Route
Haven’t heard of it? I hadn’t either. Surprisingly, neither had the workers at the coffee shop at the junction turning off towards it. I found this by looking at the map, feeling like I was in the mood for more adventure before heading to Palmerston North. Feeling compelled to take the road less travelled, I spun off to this scenic route (which I verified by finding a 4-day cycling route along the road) that wound its way through verdant fields and valleys for 115km. With the snowy peak of Mount Ruapehu frequently looming off in the distance, it was impossibly idyllic. Gazing out at the vast greenland, I felt like Shadowfax or Epona could come galloping up at any moment.
4) Abel Tasman
Abel Tasman is an absolute must-visit, and I would certainly put it into my top 3 of all the places I visited in New Zealand. Although you can do a multi-day track, I opted to take the fast cat out of Kaiteriteri and do a short hike from Tonga Quarry to Bark Bay. If you have minimal time, the fast cat is an excellent option – and a fun one – that allows you to see a lot of the remote bays, as well as Split Apple Rock and fur seals. My 2-hour hike only took me 1 hour, and I was “forced” to lie on one of the most beautiful beaches for 2 hours. I perched myself near a freshwater stream that slowly revealed itself to be a hidden tidal crossing as time went on. This is likely where I felt most calm and centered, and I left feeling completely renewed as a human being. 10/10 would recommend.
5) Franz Josef Glacier
As a Canadian, I had mixed feelings about driving down the West Coast just to see some ice. And, some “sad” ice at that, having heard tales of it retreating faster than an Italian tank (too soon?) But, it turns out, the glacier itself wasn’t what amazed me about the area; it was walking up the moraine. Everything here told the tale of the glacier that once was, whether it was the deposited stones strewn across the valley floor, or the smoothed and sculpted cliffside gently wiped away by the ice over thousands of years. I felt truly small here; one, tiny being walking along a massive, ancient space. The Glacier itself was “meh”, but perhaps worth it to have a gander before it’s gone.
6) The Blue Pools
I’m not sure I’ve ever seen such clear, blue water, and I’m not sure I ever will again. Standing on the swing bridge, you can peer down see to the very bottom of these stunningly blue pools. This area was also full of parents completely unphased by their young children jumping off the bridge into the shallow waters. One 10-year old jumper exclaimed to his nonplussed parent, “My foot touched the bottom!” I’m not quite sure what my parental response would be to that, but “That’s good fun, innit Olivah?” it most certainly would not be.
7) Driving through “The Neck” to Wanaka
Arriving at The Neck was one of many surreal, “WOW” moments I had on this trip. After driving through from the somewhat dreary West Coast, I finally arrived in a place that I’d been looking at pictures of for years – only to have it surpass my wildest expectations. Driving through The Neck, I got my first glimpse of the beautiful Lake Hawea. The blue water, grassy hillside, and looming peaks in the distance made this one of the most special spots I visited. GO THERE.
8) Seven Mile Reserve (near Queenstown)
Located a short drive outside of Queenstown, I arrived at Seven Mile Reserve (along the road to Glenorchy) at dusk. With the TSS Earnslaw chugging below, twilight revealed the contours of the hills in the distance and cast a beautiful, still light on Lake Wakatipu. This was one of most peaceful, serene settings I’ve ever experienced.
9) Bennett’s Bluff Lookout (near Queenstown)
If I had to pick one view from all my travels in New Zealand, Bennett’s Bluff Lookout would be it. With the shock of the bright, blue waters of Lake Wakitipu curling around you, the lupins in the immediate foreground, and the high, snowy peaks inviting you onwards, you’ll be glad your car breaks squealed to a halt to sit roadside for a few moments.
10) Milford Sound
I got the benefit of seeing Milford Sound in all its glory, with the morning rainfall causing waterfalls, like The Four Sisters, to cascade down the cliffs. Taking a 2-hour boat cruise out to the Tasman Sea, you wind your way along the high sea cliffs, peering up at infinite waterfalls that seem to pour from the heavens. If you’re lucky, you might even get to glimpse the top of Mitre Peak, as I did, when the clouds parted for a few moments for me to see its iconic summit.
11) Point Nugget Lighthouse
Having seen many astronomy photos from this South Coast extremity, it was surreal to stand here. Unfortunately, the night I stayed near there was rainy, so I didn’t get to glimpse the stars. But, being there, standing in the sun, I felt pretty good about life. Waves and wind pound against the shoreline here, creating sea stacks or “Nuggets”/Rocky Islets, just offshore.
12) The schist rock landscape near Middlemarch
While I purposefully visited many Lord of the Rings locations, this one was completely unexpected. As I drove through this seldom-taken route back to Wanaka, I was suddenly overcome with the realization that “They filmed Lord of the Rings here! Like literally right THERE!” (specifically the scene where, what remains of the Fellowship, is hunting for orcs in an effort to retrieve Merry and Pippin.) If you don’t share this cinematic affinity, perhaps you’ll find it lacking, but for me it was unexpected and cool.
13) The Remarkables
The Remarkables were even more remarkable than I thought. Looking up at their striking, jagged shape from Queenstown Gardens, I found them to be very unique to all the countless other mountains I had seen before. Definitely worth a glimpse.
14) Mount Cook & Hooker Valley Track
Part of my plan to finish my trip on a high, the drive to Mount Cook from Twizel (pronounced “Twy-zel” not “Twizz-el”, as I soon learned) did not disappoint. You drive along the lupin-filled hillside that borders Lake Pukaki before arriving at the base of high peaks, including Mount Cook (whose head was in the clouds.) Mount Cook Village seemed situated alarmingly close to potential avalanche land, but this close proximity offered an amazing view of pink-tinged snow caused by the Australian bushfire smoke setting on their surface. Hooker Valley Track was scintillating – I wish I did the whole thing in hindsight, but I just walked up to the first viewpoint for a look at the first swing bring and Mueller Lake before turning back to go to Tasman Lake. Definitely go.
15) Corsair Bay & Godley Head
This one was a surprise, and offered quite the finale before flying back from Christchurch to Auckland for my flight home. Driving from Westmoreland through Dyers Pass, I wound my way along a beautiful, blue bay and grassy headlands to Lyttelton Harbour. I then followed an enticing, and aptly-named, Summit Road further up the hill. A short walk through a grassy paddock led to a sweeping view of the long, beach-filled coastline that borders Christchurch. It was there that I glanced a small road that went out to Godley Headland, which I followed for 6km to an old battery reserve. This also provided a look at hidden locals’ beach – “Taylors Mistake” – that looked like the perfect summer spot. I paused here and began my farewell to this beautiful land, trying to retain every warm ray of 30-degree sunshine and hold the beautiful memory of this place in my mind for all time.
Those are my top 15! There are definitely strong “honourable mentions” like Pancake Rocks and Hokitika Gorge, but these are the ones that truly stood out. If you had to make me pick Sophie’s Choice-style, I would say my top 3 are: 1) Abel Tasman 2) Waitomo Glowworm Caves and 3) Queenstown/Wanaka.
I truly hope you too can visit these amazing places, and see them for yourself. They are worth all the time and money it takes to get there – I assure you.
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