This June, I checked off another travel bucket list item by going to Spain, where I had an absolutely magnificent time. I had wanted to visit since seeing Vicky Cristina Barcelona in my 20s – finding the warm, golden hues of the city and the Spanish wine (and guitar) to be appealing prospects. Going as a solo traveller felt a bit daunting – particularly as every tourist book started with a warning on pickpockets in Barcelona in BIG, BOLD SCARY FONT. But, as my friends who had been there assured me, those fears would not materialize if I used my good judgement and common sense…and “put (my) phone in (my) fanny” which, as I told my friend, is not something I would repeat in England.
So, where to begin? Firstly, Spain is wonderful. The people are very friendly, very chill, and seem to know how to live an enjoyable life. Congrats to them! Patatas bravos! Someone on Reddit had described the Spanish men as being quite gallant and I agree. Every interaction I had with a Spaniard was lovely, and I didn’t have any issues with language barriers – everyone either spoke enough English or I spoke/learned enough Spanish to order my “tortilla y cafe con leche.”
I actually landed twice in Barcelona with my flight from London going for a go-around due to tricky headwinds, which had gotten us there well-ahead of our planned arrival. But, while many passengers white-knuckled their armrests at this unexpected turn of events, I was quite content as we enjoyed a low altitude scenic flight of Barcelona while looping back for another landing. It was nice to look up the coastline and see the beaches and the America’s Cup catamarans practising in the ocean.
Here are a few of my highlights from my four-day visit, which I hope can be helpful should you find yourself booking a ticket there in the near future.
Park Güell
Located at the northern part of the city, not everyone makes it up to this idyllic park, which features some of Gaudi’s most famous structures. But that would be a mistake! It was probably my favourite Barcelona attraction. I was given the good tip of making a reservation for the morning – not only for cooler summer temperatures, but also to escape the crowds. A rowdy group of Dutch tourists made me get off the bus a stop earlier, and I was glad I did, as I was able to wind my way up a discreet escalator and go through a side entrance. By doing so, I was able to get my bearings while listening to the parakeets flit about the garden.
Not only do you get a wonderful art and architecture-infused experience here, but you also have a great view looking down at a sprawling Barcelona below since the park is built up the hill (and why it’s wise to take a bus to get there). Winding your way along the paths, the park unveils new sights depending on your perspective – whether you are looking down, up, or on a walkway. A washroom hunt in particular led me to appreciate the many angles of the park, with the WC being located in a Gaudi “bat cave.” While I’d typically be annoyed by a 15-minute queue, this is one rare place that I certainly was not. Amongst my favourite parts of the park were the colonnaded pathways, “bird nests” flourishing with flowers, a discreet Washer Woman column (does women’s work always go unnoticed?), and the mosaics in the Hypostyle Room. Plus, there are several musicians positioned throughout the park as you wander along, so you can expect to hear some Spanish guitar along your visit. I could not recommend going here more highly!
Sagrada Familia
Opinions on this cathedral were so divided that I almost didn’t book going. But, my oldest friend looked me squarely in the eye and said “Kathryn – you have to go. It’s one of the coolest places I have ever been to.” Heeding her advice, and the sincerity of her gaze, I bought a ticket three weeks before going (they sell-out weeks in advance) and I’m so grateful that I did.
I totally agree with her; it’s one of the coolest places I’ve ever been to. On the outside – it’s a lot. You are almost overwhelmed with all the intricate sculptures on the Western side, which is one giant Jesus “who’s who”. But, inside – my jaw dropped. Stained glass windows flood the cathedral with warmth and light, while giant columns nicknamed “The Forest” hold up the massive, spacious, airy structure. Gaudi was inspired by shapes and structures from nature, which are infused into the architecture everywhere you look, including in spiral staircases that mimic conical shells. I freaking loved it, and ended up spending 3 hours between the cathedral and the museum below. I highly recommend you go if this sounds like your jam!
I paid extra to go up the Tower on the Nativity, but it was mostly going up an elevator, seeing some figures on the outside walls from a small bridge (and a few porta-potties for the workers still building the damn thing), and then walking down hundreds of steps. Not worth it, in my opinion. Gotta give Gaudi his flowers – I very much enjoyed both the outdoor experience of Park Guell and Sagrada Familia.
Palau de la Música Catalana
If you want to experience some Spanish guitar and flamenco, I could think of no finer place to watch a performance than that of the beautiful Palau de la Música Catalana, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. I attended a “Masters of Spanish Guitar” performance and went early to admire the space, which features a gorgeous stained-glass skylight and statues of “the muses” adorning the stage walls.
The performance itself was remarkable. I can’t recall having ever watched flamenco performed in-person before so to see two dancers who were so exceptional at their craft, dancing in such a picturesque setting, was very special. As was listening to and watching the Spanish guitar be performed in its home of origin by such exceptional musicians. A very fun and memorable experience!
Wandering the neighbourhoods
Barcelona lends itself well to a good, aimless (or well-planned) wander. I thought about taking the “Hop on, Hop off” bus, but every time I looked at one it gave me “hop off” vibes, so I opted for bipedal transport only. And, I’m glad I did.
The warm hues and narrow walkways between buildings draw you in, and I found myself going with the flow throughout the Gothic Quarter and El Born neighbourhoods. I even stumbled upon a teeming town square where a Catalan celebration was going on; the Flame of Canigo complete with puppeted “giants” whose 14-wielders were made up of mostly men who then got out and and took a smoke break – breaking the spell. Over two days, I found myself walking all over, including through the busy and vibrant Boqueria market (where people were already popping bottles and diving into paella at 10am – respect), Plaça de Catalunya, Barcelona Cathedral, La Rambla, Place de Sant Jaume, Palau Guell, Port Vell, the Roman walls, Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar, and the pockmarked walls of Sant Felip Neri. Honestly, just get boots on the ground and allow yourself to be drawn into the neighbourhoods. (A note: I didn’t have any issues with pickpockets, but I was vigilant. I just had my zipped up Lululemon purse at my front and everything was fine.)
Parc de la Ciutadella
If you’re looking to continue a casual stroll, I highly recommend making your way down to Parc de la Ciutadella, which is littered with artwork, the stunning Cascada monument, the Arc de Triomfe, and the Catalan Parliament.
The Cascada monument was my favourite part, and is one of the earliest works Gaudi contributed to back when he was an architecture student. The green water is so peculiar you almost expect Gene Wilder to pop out somewhere in Willy Wonka garb. It has a very opulent look, with lots of gold sculptures and dragons popping out of the grandiose stairways and balcony.
Basking in the sun at a rooftop bar
Staying just south of the residential Gracia neighbourhood, I was very close to both La Pedrera and Casa Battlo – and a ton of rooftop bars. Shortly after arriving, I went to Alaire Terrace Bar and enjoyed an aperol spritz while looking out at La Pedrera. A perfect introduction to the city, in my eyes.
Wandering back to my hotel, I got a closer look at these two famous Gaudi houses from the outside, but decided to save an internal visit for another trip. I felt I was working my way up to a downpayment with all the money I was forking over for these visits, so I opted to be selective with what I saw.
Enjoying the cuisine
Few things are more renowned than the Spanish cuisine. As a solo traveller, I encountered a Goldilocks dilemma where I found ordering 3 tapas to be too much and 2 tapas to be too few, but I gave it my level best to sample some local delicacies.
Of course, I tried some paella (although the Catalan “fideuà” is the more regional version of the dish), and visited the conveniently located La Pepita a couple of times. There, I sat next to some Americans who had visited the year before, and knew how to get the secret, free liquor behind the bar, including herbas. I also enjoyed several late afternoon meals, particularly since dinner is a post-9pm affair, including a refreshing tinto de verano (red wine with soda) at Cafe Joan. Spain definitely has the “chill sit” downpat, and I really enjoyed relaxing at restaurants, watching the world go by, and generally not feeling rushed to move on.
Obviously there’s a lot more to see and do in Barcelona, but I think I made good go at seeing the parts that most appealed to me within four days. I didn’t go to Monjuic or Tibidabo as they were both on more extreme parts of the city that I didn’t feel like venturing out towards. And, also I didn’t go out to Montserrat, which I’ve heard is also quite memorable, but I did fly over it on my flight out to Bilbao. Something for Round II!
More to come soon as I continue my travel diary North to Basque Country!
